Monastic Festivals Of Ladakh
Ladakh is located in the Trans-Himalayan region of India bordering Pakistan
and China and physically not far from Afghanistan and Russia
The Land Of Celebration
The centuries-old culture of Ladakh has found expression in its monuments, monasteries,
oral literature, art forms, fairs and festivals. And in the time-honored tradition
of collective celebration: every occasion-marriage, birth, harvesting or even
the flowering of plants-is marked by feasting, dancing and the singing of folk
songs that form a part of its living heritage.
Monastic Festivals: A Carnival Of Life
But it is the monastic festivals that provide the average Ladakhi with the spice
of life. No there festival can match them in religious and entertainment value.
Monastic festivals are held to commemorate the founding of a monastery, the
birthday of its patron saint or major events in the evolution of Tibetan Buddhism.
Thousands of people turn out in their colourful best, making every festival
a carnival of colors.
Experience the power of "chhams"
Chhams, a highly choreographed sacred dance-drama, is the core event of every
monastic festival. A select group of resident lamas, in brightly patterned brocade
robes, perform these dances in the courtyard of the monastery. All of them wear
masks that represent various divinities found in the "Gon Khang" -the room dedicated
to the guardian divinities in every major monastery. Some may even represent
characters from historical episodes or Tibetan fables.
The lamas, holding ritual objects in their hands, step around the central flagpole
of the monastic courtyard in solemn dance and mime, accompanied by the crash
of cymbals, the boom of drums, the melodious sound of the "Shawm", and the deep
resonance of twelve-foot horns.
The Beginning
Every dance begins with "Ser Kyem", an invocation-by offerings of sacred water
and food-to the gods and the guardians of the four quarters to witness the "Chhams"
The Interludes
In between the more sombre dances, relief is provided by performers in the guise
of skeletons who perform comic and acrobatic feats.
And At Last, The End Of Evil
As the "Chhams" approaches climax, the votive offering- a grotesque human figure
made of dough is ritually dismembered. "Jha Nak", leader of the Black Hat dancers,
traditionally does this. He then scatters the pieces in the four cardinal directions.
This act has many interpretations: cleansing of the soul, the dissolution of
the human body after death, or a re-enactment of the assassination of the Tibetan
apostate king Lang-dar-ma by a Buddhist monk in AD842
Of This Life And The Next
The "Rimpoche" or Head Lama incarnate of the monastery conducts the rites and
ceremonies of the festival. He occupies a high throne in the Centre of the verandah
at one side of the rectangular courtyard. Other Lamas sit on either side of
the throne on carpet-covered straw mattresses, according to their hierarchy.
The Lamas recite mantras associated with various episodes of "Chhams: under
the Rimpoche's direction, thus creating the right ambience for devotees to imbibe
the religious significance of the dances. The appearance of the masked dancers
serves to familiarize the devotees with the kind of divinities they are to encounter
during the 49th day, "Bardo" (or transit) period between death and rebirth in
one of the six forms of existence depending upon one's Karma (deeds).
Makeshift Markets And Merrymaking
The monastic festivals also provide an opportunity for socializing, trading
and organizing outings. A makeshift market springs up overnight outside the
monastic complex. During the summer festivals, people organize picnics, overnight
excursions, and all-night singing and dancing parties.
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Non Monastic Festivals
Of Ladakh
There are few non monastic festival in Ladakh of which most important being
the Losar; the Ladakhi New Year. Ladakh festival is another major event and
mainly targeting the tourist and visitors. Sindhu Darshan festival is promoted
by ITDC when people from different part of India gather at the Indus.