Places to Visit in Ladakh
Ladakh is located in the Trans-Himalayan region of India bordering Pakistan
and China and physically not far from Afghanistan and Russia
Ladakh is unbeatable on the heritage front with its 34 ancient Buddhist monasteries.
Every village has a monastery and every monastery has a annual festival, its
undoubtedly the "Land Of Celebrations". Besides, there are 15 listed ancient
rock and boulder carvings and 40 Maiterya stone figures that fascinate a particular
group interested in Tibetan art and heritage. Its landscape gets its own share
of eco-tourist. Traversing through the ancient villages, far remote-otherwise
inaccessible villages and nomadic people of the Changthang regions in itself
is the reward after reaching here.
AROUND LEH
Leh Palace (Namgyal Tsemo): King Gragspa
Bum-Lde built the "Red Gonpa" known as Tsemo Gonpa in 1430 AD. The monument
has three-storied Maiterya Buddha's statue and a one-storied statue of Avaloketesvara
and Manjushri. The Tsemo Sungbum Chenmo (sacred text) was written in gold and
silver, Tisuru Stupa consist of 108 temples, which were remarkable works done
in the reign of king Graspa-Bum-Lde
The Namgyal Tsemo (victory Peak) was build by King Tashi Namgyal after the reunification
of upper and lower Ladakh and victory over Hor and their bodies are placed under
an image of Mahakala, the guardian deities to stop further invasion of Hor.
The Leh palace known as 'Lechen Palkhar' was built by Singay Namgyal around
in the beginning of 17th Century A.D. The nine-storied palace is now deserted,
and the ASI (Archeological Survey Of India) has taken up the renovation work.
Sankar Gompa & Village: A relatively modern monastery, it is closely
associated with the Spituk monastery and serves as the residence of the head
priest-Kushak Bakula. A number of gold icons are to be found here.
Shanti Stupa (Japanese Peace Pagoda) :
Shanti Stupa/Japanese peace pagoda is build by a Japanese religious organization
headed by Head monk Nakamura with the help from the organization and local people.
It is situated at a hill top in Changspa village providing a bird eye view of
the Leh town and the surrounding mountain peaks. Architecturally it has the
Japanese touch with small clean rooms on the side for meditators and the main
Japanese shrine at the entrance.
Leh Mosque: The Jama Masjid of Leh was built in 1666-67 AD under an agreement
between Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb and Ladakhi ruler Deldan Namgyal. Initialy,
the architecture of the mosque bore Tibetan, Central Asian and Ladakhi style.
In recent years it has been reconstructed and given a new look with minarets
and domes.
Jokhang: the Ladakh Buddhist Association in 1957 built the small Gonpa
opposite to SBI and known as Jokhang in the main bazaar, which is open throughout
the day for visitors. The Gonpa contains statue of Joyo Rinpoche (crowned Buddha).
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THE ANCIENT MONASTERIES OF THE INDUS VALLEY
OFF THE LEH SRINAGAR HIGHWAY
Spituk Gompa:8 Kms from Leh, it stands prominently on the top
of hillock commanding a panoramic view of the Indus Valley for miles. Many icons
of Buddha and fine Thankas are to be found in this 15th century Gompa. The Gompa
also houses a collection of ancient masks, antique arms, and an awe-inspiring
image of Mahakaal. The face of the Kali image is kept covered and is revealed
only at the annual function at January every year.
Phyang Gompa: 17 Kms from Leh on the Leh-Kargil road, it looks like a
huge palace from afar, build by Tashi Namgyal in the later half of the 16th
century AD, it belongs to the Red Cap sect of Buddhists. Hundreds of icon of
Buddha and other gods are kept on wooden shelves.
Likir Gompa: Founded in the 11th century and rededicated to a different
monastic order in the 15th century, its earlier Gompa was destroyed in a fire.
The present Gompa dated back to the 18th century. Skilled craftsmen producing
excellent Thankas, earthen pots and carved wooden folding stools, live here
in the village. Majestically situated, Likir commands a spectacular view. A
magnificent giant Jupiter tree, one of the few survivors of its species, stands
in the courtyard.
Basgo Gompa: 40 Kms downstream from Leh, it was the seat of power of
branch of a Namgyal family. It was here in 1680 that invading Mongol and Tibetan
armies were held in check over a three year old siege. Original 16th century
murals and other arts at Basgo are well worth a visit.
Alchi Gompa: 70 Kms from Leh, on the banks of the Indus, is the Alchi
Gompa dating a thousand years back. One of its walls features thousands of miniature
sized pictures of the Buddha. Three large sized images made of clay and painted
brightly are its focal attractions. No longer an active religious center, it
is looked after by monks from the Liker monastery.
Ridzong Gompa: There is no road to Rizong Gompa hence one has to
walk to the monastery which is deep into the mountains. Rizong Gompa is known
as the paradise for Meditation. Guru Padma Sambhava is believed to editated
here for years. One can still find the small caves where Lamas used to meditate
for years cutting themselves from the rest of the world except for an one feet
square outlet window from where they accept the one time meal of the day.
Lamayuru Gompa: The oldest holy site in Ladakh, it was a bon shrine prior
to the advent of Buddhism. Also known as Yung Drung(Swastika) it is sited on
a high promontory overlooking the village and valley. For sheer spectacle value
no other Gompa can match Lamayuru.
Mulbekh Gompa: Precariously perched a top of a 200 Mts. high crag, it
has an imposing rock-carving of Chamba, the future Buddha. On the other end
of the valley is a large vertical phallus shaped rock with a monastery at its
base.
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OFF THE LEH MANALI HIGHWAY
Shey Palace And Gompa: Situated on a hillock 15 Kms upstream from Leh,
it was once the residence of the royal family. According to tradition, it was
the seat of power of the pre-Tibetan kinds. A 7.5 mts high copper statue of
Buddha, plated with gold and the largest of its kind, is installed here.
Thiksey Gompa:
19 Kms from Leh, spectacularly sited, Thiksey is one of the largest and architecturally
most impressive Gompas. There are several temples in this Gompas, containing
images, stupas and wall paintings of Buddha, which are exquisite.
Hemis Gompa:
40 Kms from Leh, it is the wealthiest, best known and biggest Gompa of Ladakh.
Its popularity stems from the major annual festival held here in summer. The
festival is in honor of Guru Padma Sambhava's birth anniversary. It also has
the largest Thanka in Ladakh which is unfurled once in 12 years (nest in 2004)
Hemis was built in 1630 during the reign of Singge Namgyal, an illustrious ruler
of Ladakh. It flourished under the Namgyal Dynasty for the royalty favored the
Drugpa sect, which is managed the monastery. It is divided into two, the assembly
hall on the right and the main temple on the left. The hall (Dukhang) is also
used as "green room" by the dancers during the festival. The temple is known
as Tshogkhang. The verandahs have a surfeit of frescoes, among them the Buddhist
"Wheel Of Life" (Kalachakra) and the lords of the four quarters, besides the
prayer wheel.
Stok Palace & Museum:
The palace of the banished royal family, Stok has a museum which displays fabulous
period costumes and jewelry of the royalty along with exquisite Thankas representing
the life style of Shakya Muni. Interesting historical objects like coins, armor,
weapons, precious jades and porcelain too can be seen here.
Matho Gompa:
Situated on the opposite bank of the Indus across Thiksey, Matho was established
in the first half of the 16th century AD and has valuable collection of very
old and beautiful Thankas, some in the form of Mandalas. Its annual festival
of Oracles in early March is an important event in Ladakhi religious calendar.
Young monks selected as oracles undergo long period of meditation, fasting and
ritual purification to gain spiritual strength. When possessed they perform
astonishing feats with swords and knives, cavorting blindfolded along narrow
parapets.
Stakana Gompa:
A few Kms up streams from Thiksey, Stakna is situated in a 60-meter high isolated
rock
Takthok Gompa:
The Takthok (the monastery with rock ceiling); 50km. east of Leh, this is the
only monastery belonging to the Nyingmapa school of order. The monastery came
into existence when Guru Padma Sambhava visited this place and blessed it in
the 8th century. The Gonpa was merely a meditation cave of Padma Sambhava, with
footprints and many other signs, until the reign of King Tsewang Namgail. When
Mahasiddha Kunga Phunstog introduced monastic community. It was given the name
of Takthok Padmalinggon. The Takthok Festival is held in the month of July or
August.
Chemrey Gompa:
45 Kms from Leh, situated in the picturesque valley leading to Changla, the
Gompa was constructed as a funeral act of merit on Singge Namgyal's death in
1645. A large collection of scriptures with title pages in sterling silver and
the text in gold letters is kept here. Close by a cave monastery reputed to
have been the abode of Padma Sambhava during one of his periods of meditation.
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THE ANCIENT MONASTREIS OF THE NUBRA VALLEY
Deskit Village: Deskit is the main village of headquarter of Nubra
valley, which has a small market consisting of a row of shops and about 500
years old Gompa on the hilltop. Spectacular view of the valley can be seen
form the monastery.
Deskit Gompa: Deskit Gompa was founded
by Lama Sherab Zangpo of Stod in about 1420 AD during the reign of King Dragspa.
About 100 monks are residing in the Gompa, which is a branch of Thikse Monastery.
The monastic festival called Gustor takes place on 20th and 21st days of the
12th month of Tibetan calendar.
Hundar Village: Hundar is a beautiful village to stay with lot of trees
and you will really enjoy your stay at Hundar. It has a small monastery and
ruined fort above the village. The walk or Camel Safari (Double Hump bacterian
camels) from Hundar to Deskit, through sand dunes for two hours is wonderful.
Samstanling Gompa: Samstanling Monastery was founded by Lama Tsultrim
Nima and Monastic community was introduced as Rezong Gompa. About 50-60 monks
are residing at this 132 years old monastery. The Gompa has some strict rules
and regulations. -Women are not allowed in the monastery after sunset and
before sunrise.
-No smoking is allowed (not even bringing cigarettes packets) in the monastery.
-Alcohol and non-veg. Food are strictly prohibited.
- Do not enter in sleeveless shirts and Pants.
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Panamik: Panamik was major stopover for ancient Silk route caravan
before crossing the mountains of Karakoram and Ka-lu, as there were no villages
in further journey for 12 days, Panamik is famous for hot spring, Insa Gonpa
and near by small beautiful Lobonestso (small Lake).
Khalsar: Khalsar is an hour drive from Khardong village. The Shayok
river and Tsati village are visible from here. Khalsar village is the finishing
point for Sakti-Khalsar trek. The village is about 95 Kms. From Leh, 21 Kms
from Sumur village and is situated at an altitute of 10,000 ft. above sea
level.
Khardungla Pass: The road journey to Nubra valley leads through Khardung
La pass (The highest Motorable road in the world) 18,390 ft. around 39 Kms.
Away from Leh. There are two checkpoints on the both sides of the pass. Khardong
is the first village of Nubra valley at higher altitude than Deskit and other
villages.
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THE ANCIENT MONASTERIES OF THE KINGDOM OF ZANSKAR
Padum: Padum is 464 Kms. From Leh and 234 Kms away from Kargil. Once
the capital of the Kingdom of Zanskar valley, today it is the administrative
headquarter of the region and probably the most populace settlement of barren
Zanskar region. There is a tiny market along the main road. The town has a
newly constructed Mosque. Stakriko Gompa is on a hill side and the 10th century
monument carved on a huge rock near the river bank provides epigraphic evidence
that the region was influenced by Buddhism since ancient period.
Karsha Gompa: The Karsha monastery is situated on a steep mountain
overlooking the Padum valley. It is around 9 Kms from Padum across the river
and it takes around 02 hours by walk to reach Karsha. Karsha Gompa was founded
by a translator Fagspa Sherab from Zanskar and later taken care by Dorjey
Sherab and Sherab Zangpo of Stod. At present it is the largest Gelukpa monastery
in Zanskar region. Around 90 monks are in residence.
Stongdey Gompa: Stongdey Gompa lies on a hilltop around 10 Kms. To
the north of Padum on the way to Angla. It takes around 03 hours by walk.
Stongdey Marpaling is derived from its founders name Marpa. The monastery
belongs to the Gelukpa order. At present around 60 monks are in residence.
Phuktal Gompa: The Phuktal monastery is picturesquely st on a mountain
that looks like a bird's nest. It is situated on the west of Padum. This Gompa
was founded by Phagspa Sherab, later a monastic community was introduced.
The Phuktal Festival takes place on the 18th and 19th days of the 12th month
of Tibetan calendar.
Bardan Gompa: The monastery is situated on a huge rock overlooking
the Lingti River to the south of Padum, on the Lamayuru Darcha trekking route.
The Compa was founded by Dewa Gyatso in the 17th century AD. Bardan Gompa
is a branch of the Stakna monastery. Around 40 monks are in residence here.
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MOST FACINATING VILLAGES OF LADAKH
Village Of Magyu: The most beautiful village of Ladakh lies off the
Leh-Srinagar Highway into the mountains at an altitude of 13860 Ft. This petit
village has few houses and nearest accommodation is at Uleytokpo and Alchi.
The village is approachable by walk from Uleytokpo.
Chulichan: Chulichan, the nunnery is around one and half Kms. Below
the Rizong monastery; around 20 Nuns resides at Chulichan. They provide food
and cloths to the monks and perform morning and evening prayers.
Dha-Bema: (The twin village of the Aryans): This village is famous
for its people and are called the Drokpas (The pasture people), settled in
the lower Indus valley are the descendants of "Aryans". They are Buddhist
but also worship the nature Cods and Spirits as well as Dah & Tseringma
protectors. Their tutelary Gods perhaps the most unique feature is their revulsion
for Cows, Onions and Water, they believe bathing will drive their Gods away.
Dha is 162 Kms, and Bema is 158 Kms from Leh. This villages been opened in
recent years for the tourist and has been the study field for Anthropologist,
Photographers and Historians of the world.
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THE HIGHT ALTITUDE
LAND LOCKED LAKES
The Pangong Lake: This route takes the visitor past the picturesque
villages of Shey and Thikse, and turns off the Indus valley by the side valley
of Chemrey and Sakti. The Ladakh rang is crossed by the Chang-la (18,000 feet
/ 5,475 M) which despite its great elevation is one of the easier passes,
remaining open for much of the year even in winter, apart from periods of
actual snowfall. Tangse, just beyond the foot of the pass, has an ancient
temple.
But the main attraction of this circuit is the
Pangong Lake, situated
at 14,000 feet (4,267 M). A long narrow basin of inland drainage, hardly six
to seven kilometers at its widest point to which foreigners are permitted,
is only some seven km along the southern shore from the head of the lake,
but it affords spectacular views of the mountains of the Changchenmo range
to the north, their reflection shimmering in the ever-changing blues and greens
of the lakes brackish water. Above Spangmik are the glacier and snow-capped
peaks of the Pangong range.
Spangmik and a scattering of other tiny villages along the lakes southern
shore are the summer homes of a scanty population of Chang-pa the nomadic
herds' people of Tibet and south east Ladakh. The Pangong Chang-pa cultivates
sparse crops of barley and peas in summer. It is in winter that they unfold
their tents (Rebo) and take their flocks of sheep and Pashmina goats out to
the distant pastures.
Tsomoriri & Tsokar Lake: The area traversed by the Manali Leh road,
and containing the drainage basins of Tsomoriri and other lakes is known asRupshu. Here, the Zanskar range is transformed into bare rolling many-hued
hills divided by open high altitude valleys scoured by dust-devils. It is
a landscape quite unlike any other in Ladakh- or elsewhere in India.
The first circuit follows the Manali road over the Taglang-la as far as Debring,
a Chang-pa camping place. From here it strikes off east on a rough track across
the basin of the twin lakes Startsapuk-Tso (Fresh water) and the Tso-kar (Salt
Water), over the Polokangka-la (About 16,500 feet / 5030 M) to Sumdo in the
Puga Valley-near the site of old sulphur mines, then over a roller-coaster
track to the head of the Tso-moriri and on to Korzok, a quarter of the way
along the lake's 20-km length.
The alternative route, instead of leaving the Indus at Upshi, carries on up
the river, as it snakes its way through a gorge between the Ladakh and Zanskar
ranges, to the village of Chumathang, where there is a hot spring. At Mahe,
some 17 km further, the road crosses from the north to the south bank of the
river by a bridge; it then follows the Puga steam up to join the first circuit
at Sumdo.
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